Notes

Hainan – China’s Tropical Island

A personal journey through Haikou, Wuzhishan, Qiongzhong and Sanya, between historic buildings, tropical nature, tea and the sea.

When people think of Hainan, many picture palm trees, warm seas and large holiday resorts. Yet China’s tropical island province is far more varied. Historic cities, dense rainforest, quiet places in the interior and modern coastal cities are often only a few hours apart.

Historic buildings on a street in Haikou Old Town
Historic façades and everyday life in Haikou.

Historic Haikou

Long rows of old shophouses line the streets of Haikou’s historic centre. They have tall windows, decorated façades and covered entrances. Some streets look more like Southeast Asia than the image many people associate with a major Chinese city.

Today, the buildings contain small shops, restaurants and cafés. The streets are well kept, but they do not feel like a sealed-off museum. Everyday life in the island capital continues between the historic façades.

When Nature Swallows Walls

Massive tree roots growing over an old wall near Wuzhishan
Near Wuzhishan, a powerful tree spreads across an old wall.

In Hainan’s mountainous interior near Wuzhishan, a huge tree grows over an old wall. Its roots form a dense web across the stone and seem to be slowly swallowing the structure.

The scene shows the strength of Hainan’s tropical vegetation. Warmth, humidity and abundant rain allow plants to grow almost anywhere. Walls and abandoned buildings can quickly disappear beneath roots, moss and dense greenery.

An Invitation to Tea

Tea tasting in a teahouse in Wuzhishan
A long and relaxed tea tasting in Wuzhishan.

Hainan is not only about landscapes and beaches, but also about meeting the people who live on the island. In a teahouse in Wuzhishan, we were invited to an extensive tasting.

Different teas, small cups and regional delicacies stood on the table. Tea is not simply poured and drunk on the side. Several infusions are tasted one after another while their different aromas are compared.

A short visit quickly became a long afternoon together. Unplanned encounters like this often remain in the memory more strongly than famous sights.

Sunset in Qiongzhong

Sunset over a river and suspension bridge in Qiongzhong
Evening light at a suspension bridge in Qiongzhong.

In Qiongzhong, the sun sinks behind the wooded hills of the island’s interior. Its light reflects in the shallow water of a small river crossed by a narrow suspension bridge.

This is Hainan’s quiet, almost rural side. There are no high-rise buildings or large hotel complexes. Instead, the view is shaped by green riverbanks, small houses among the hills and a landscape that feels especially peaceful in the evening.

Bridges on Several Levels

Several bridges crossing a river in Qiongzhong
Modern paths and traditional forms in Qiongzhong.

Another view from Qiongzhong shows several bridges crossing the water at different heights. A curved footbridge runs below, while above it stands a large stone bridge with a long red structure in a traditional Chinese style.

Buildings like these combine modern engineering with classical forms. Red columns, curved roofs and illuminated paths give even smaller cities a distinctive character.

Tropical Life in Haikou

Swimming pool with large snail sculptures and palm trees in Haikou
Palm trees, water and warm air are part of Haikou’s cityscape.

Back in Haikou, the island shows a completely different side. A swimming pool with large snail sculptures lies between tall palm trees, and the sea is already visible beyond them.

Haikou is not only the administrative centre and a large city. It also has a relaxed tropical atmosphere. Palm trees, warm evenings and the proximity of the sea are just as much a part of daily life as modern neighbourhoods and busy streets.

Sanya and the Sea

Sandy beach with coconut palms and a view of Sanya’s coastline
The beach and modern skyline of Sanya.

Sanya lies at the southern end of the island. Wide sandy beaches, coconut palms and warm seas make it one of China’s best-known seaside destinations. For me, one of the country’s most beautiful beaches can be found here.

From the shade of the palms, the view stretches across the beach and bay towards the city’s modern skyline. The unusually shaped high-rise buildings on the opposite shore show how closely tropical scenery and modern resort life meet in Sanya.

Hainan is therefore much more than a conventional holiday destination. The island combines historic cities, tropical nature, quiet places in the interior and wide beaches. These contrasts make it one of China’s most varied regions.

Hainan shows a side of China that many people in Europe hardly know: tropical, quiet, green and full of surprising contrasts.

Josef Sibein · hello@sibein.ch